Gyeongju:....the Dauntless Trees

.....the dauntless trees
even though they are alone
are at my side gathering me in
standing guard over my life ~ Master Beop Jeong

The Royal Tomb of Queen Seon Deok, Gyeongju, Sunday April 4, 2010

When we asked about the way to the Royal Tomb of Queen Seon Deok, we were told that we may be disappointed.

The bus stop where we waited for our bus was deserted. Where is everyone on this Sunday morning?

The kind bus driver went out of the way to bring us as close to the tomb as possible, before swerving off in another direction. We know this because where we got off, there is no bus stop.

It seems that this is not one of the popular sights. It is not within walking distance from Gyeongju National Park, where most of Shilla’s main sights are located. Visually, it is a small heap of earth on the hill, easily dismissed as one of the many tombs in Gyeongju. However, following the success of the drama series, it is attracting more visitors and a new parking lot is being built when we were there.

From the main road, it was about 20 minutes’ walk up the gradual slope.

There she was, a modest tomb devoid of decorations and markings, on top of the hill. All around are scrawny pine trees, whose thin and crooked trunks remind me of aged persons’ arthritic joints. They have stood there silently and loyally, for almost two thousand years, weathering the sun, wind, rain and snow, to keep her resting place cool and pleasant.

I cannot fathom that I, a nobody from a different time and land, will be drawn to this unmarked mound on the hill. This little place where she was laid to rest is tranquil, regal, simple, humble, anonymous (except for a plaque put up by the city tourism office). I walked around the tomb and talked to her. Will she hear me? Why am I drawn to her story? No, I was not disappointed.

As I came round the corner, Kim was talking to a pair of visitors. They are a father and daughter from Japan. The old man was moved to visit her after watching the same drama. I have company in this frail reticent old man. Although I was not able to communicate with him, I know we probably share similar emotions towards the person we are visiting.

It was Ching Ming, timely for me to pay her my respects before making our way down. By this time, I could not help myself any longer. I broke down in tears, the second time this happened on the trip. I think Kim was perplexed. What happened, she asked later. How can I describe this. My heart moved.

I will not be surprised if more paraphernalia are added later around the area, like the more built up and touristy tomb of General Kim Yu-Shin. Somehow I am glad I visited her in this simple state. She does not need anything else.