Moved to Tears - Tongdusa

Seldom am I moved to tears, especially at sights that are stationary. But I was, on two occasions, at two simple sights. These two places do not come with ribbons and trimmings, bells and whistles. They are just their simple selves, but they conveyed an emotion so strong I was overwhelmed. I broke down in tears. I guess it is really not what it is, it is the way they make me feel.

Tongdusa, Yangsan City, near Busan, Wednesday March 31, 2010

I have not read about Tongdusa, but I go along with Kim. She seemed sure this is worth a visit.

It had drizzled since early morning and looked as if it will continue for the whole day. The bus ride from Nopo-dong, the last station on the Busan subway, to Yangsan, where Tongdusa is, was shorter than we had expected.

At the main gate of Tongdusa, we were directed to the path for pedestrians. There were some people going about their way, in silence. They look like devotees of the temple, not tourists. Some sections of the path looked as if they evolved naturally over many years of being walked on. On both sides are many pine trees and a little stream runs along side. Because of the rain, it was a misty picture, very quiet, almost surreal, or as Kim put it, a scene out of a movie set.

We did not talk much, as if we were afraid to spoil the ambience. We walked for some time and still no information booth in sight. The rain was relentless, like someone who would not stop sobbing. It was cold. I started to wonder if it is worth our while to suffer the rain, wind, cold, hunger....

Just to distract myself, I asked Kim, do you think they serve vegetarian meal here? Most temples do.

She replied, even if they do, it would probably be for the devotees.

Finally, we found ourselves at the information booth. The lady indicated on a map the main cluster of buildings we should visit. Then she pointed to a building among the cluster and said, “they serve vegetarian meal here from 12 noon. It is now 11.45, you can still make it if you hurry.”

I could not believe my ears! Vegetarian meal on this cold morning sounds great, but....how did she know that I asked about this? It is as if she heard my question. Was it mere coincidence? I can’t help feeling a little creepy.

Nevertheless, it was a delightful meal, I guess I appreciated it much more because I was cold and hungry.

Energized after the meal, we walked around the buildings while balancing our umbrellas, taking photographs, reading the plaques near each site and avoiding the puddles of water on the ground.

Tongdusa appears to be a very old temple, no ornate beams or bright coats of paint. Just plain sturdy weather-beaten wooden beams, window lattices, buildings. There was a rustic and deeply grounded feel to these buildings. People we met went about their businesses silently. The rain and mist floating among the trees and the buildings, near and far, lent a fairyland-like feel to the entire compound.

I felt Tongdusa’s power in its simplicity and silence, it moved me to utter my special prayer for someone who I care deeply. I have never wanted something for someone so earnestly. I don’t know what got me, I was overwhelmed.

We made out way out, through the forest, along the stream. Kim’s red umbrella, my new blue umbrella, we were like two silent souls floating on the clouds. I imagine it would make a great picture. I said to Kim, won’t it be nice if there is someone who will take a photo of us walking in the woods? She must think I am nuts, there is no one in sight.

I did not see the man in the distance until we were quite close. There he was, with an umbrella perched on his shoulder and something wrapped with a towel in his hands. He was standing on one side of a puddle of water and asked us to walk to the opposite side and stand there. I did not realize why, but Kim did. He is a photographer (a serious one, judging by the equipment he has), waiting for someone to model for him. All he wanted was a picture of the models’ reflection in the water, aberrated by the ripples caused by the rain droplets on the water. How long has he been waiting? Is this another coincidence? Here he is, the photographer I wished for, who would take a photo of us walking in the woods. I was happy, but can’t help that creepy feeling. I said to Kim, I had better be careful what I wish for.

Subsequent events suggested that the person for whom I care deeply has made progresses towards his dream. I feel very happy for him. Were they again coincidences? I like to think that my prayers in Tongdusa were answered.

I promise myself that if I return to Tongdusa, I want to explore the rest of the sprawling grounds. Probably a temple stay. Busan suddenly became my favorite city – mild weather, great international connections, ocean fresh fish, convenience and choices of everything I need for daily living, yet an hour away from this haven called Tongdusa...