Busan: Food Galore

The Dongnae pajeon that we missed....

Food is a big thing for me. I am curious enough to sample most food, as long as they are no longer moving when served. In particular I am big on using ingredients that is in season to whip up simple, healthy fresh food.

I have to conclude my Busan chapter with FOOD which I have sampled, right here in Busan. It deserves a page of its own. The abundance, the variety, the freshness, the wisdom behind them and …..….simply outstanding value.

The first thing we did on arrival in Busan is to buy the famous Busan Kim Bap (김밥). This is the Korean seaweed roll, a variation of Japanese sushi roll. Why is this one so popular (they have an outlet in Myeongdong in Seoul where a long queue is often seen forming outside the shop )? How can I explain it? Freshly cooked rice are rolled with multi-colored vegetables in a seaweed sheet. Then a little sesame oil is brushed on the roll. Because the ingredients are freshly prepared and well balanced, the kimbap makes a great meal on its own. But this kimbap has more. They serve it with a side dish containing squid and fish cakes cooked in a sauce, very much like the sauce they cooked their rice cakes in. It is a little spicy, but not overpowering, so you can taste the freshness of the squid and the fish cake. Kimbap makes a great value meal, especially when you are on the road. We packed ours and have them at Taejongdae park. We also packed another lot for Gyeongju.

I have written about strawberries. Simply delightful. We ate to our heart’s content for under US$1.

Also very memorable is the fried fish. Ocean-fresh fish of all kinds, fried in a little oil to perfect crispness – that is all that is needed for a great snack/meal. Really, I could have this EVERYDAY.

We sampled too many snacks along the way, and did not have room for a full fledged seafood meal, or the famous Dongnae pajeon, both highly recommended in guide books. So little time, so little room, so much to eat, how?  

Ever since I saw those fresh catch at the Jagalchi and the dried seafood produce they sell in Busan, I would love a culinary tour, if available, to learn about the abundantly available ingredients, their health effects, how to handle them and of course buy them home!

Kim talked a lot about the health effect of many Korean food along the trip. For example, seaweed soup, hangover soup (a special fish soup that is good for hangover), the orange looking creature... and I believe the sesame oil too. I see many Koreans have thick black hair, clear skins and are generally tall. Strongly link to their cuisine I suspect. I wish to understand the wisdom behind their cuisine, to eat like that, and see if my thinning grey hair will turn thick and black again......

Finally one morning in our guest house in Gyeongju, Kim shared this hangover soup recipe with me:

1. Fry the fish (literally translated – North Fish) in a little sesame oil.
2. Add water and boil for 1 hour to bring out the flavor.
3. Put 1 stalk of green onion (and salt and a little soy sauce) into the soup.
4. Boil another 10 minutes.
5. Add one or two eggs
6. Drink on its own, or serve with rice.

Now, I have to get hold of this “North Fish”....

Busan: Jagalchi Again!

We will leave for Gyeongju after lunch, but we have yet to cover many other places in Busan. We debated and agonized over whether to spend another day in Busan, at the expense of Gyeongju. Notwithstanding, we chose to spend what we have of our third and last day in Busan at one place – Jagalchi again!

We went in the morning, too late to watch fishing boats being unloaded at the docks. But it was a treat to see the street vendors selling fish, octopus, shellfish and just about every sea creature in existence. A more organized market is within the famous Jagalchi Market building – huge, brightly lit, with tanks and shelves full of all kinds of sea creatures. Never have I seen so many variety of seafood, such large size prawns, fishes, octopus....and such strange and weird creatures. They all smell fresh, ocean fresh.

On our way out, shops with dried sea produce – seaweeds, dried fishes and sea creatures....lined the streets. 

For those of you who know me, I used to go wild when I go to a market and usually buy more than I can consume. I am much more restrained now, but here in Jagalchi, once again, I had that impulse to buy everything, if only I have a place to cook, if only I know how to handle all these creatures.


The photo with the orange looking thing is one example of a sea creature. Guess what it is like when ready for consumption? Watch for the post on Noryangjin, a large seafood market in Seoul, where we get to eat this.

Busan : Must have: 1 Day Subway Ticket, Fish and Soju

We left Beomosa for something indoor – the modern shopping complex of Lotte and Shinshege in Centum, and then the underground shopping arcade in Nampo-dong. I found plenty to like in Busan, most of my trip shopping (other than souvenirs) were made here.

Here’s another best kept secret of Busan: the one day subway ticket costs KRW3,500 for unlimited rides within a day. It is extremely good value considering that a single trip ticket costs between KRW1,100 to KRW1,300.

After a simple dinner, we wandered into a lane around the famous Jagalchi Market. Live seafood are displayed in huge tanks outside the restaurants. It was not busy at that hour, most of the restaurants have closed for the day, or were about to close. Along the opposite side of the restaurants, many diners were eating off hotplates. We understood from a guy who just got off work that they were having eels. It is the same price and the same menu, regardless of which stall you patronize. This guy is kind of shy, but very forthcoming with information. We were to meet him again the next day when we had lunch at the restaurant he works for.

Of the restaurants that were still opened, many of them have fishes, fried right in front of you, and they looked so fresh I could not resist the temptation. We got ourselves a huge fish, some soju and beer. 매우 맛있어요!

I was completely knocked out after this very satisfying supper. Kim, on the other hand, was awoke the whole night. Why, was she not tired? We had such a long day in the rain.

Busan: Two Elegant Ladies in the Mountain

I will always remember March 31, 2010. Although it was raining the whole day, the experiences and encounters were out of the ordinary.

We had just come from Tongdusa where I had one too many events of coincidences, and found ourselves in another famous temple, Beomosa.

Given the weather, Beomosa appeared deserted. There was no other visitor in sight. We had not expected to find an information booth, much less a guide.

Will this be a quick walk through an old temple? Well, no.

There IS an information booth. There were two elegant ladies in there, and yes, you may have a guide, in your preferred language, no charge. Unbelievably lucky we were! We each armed ourselves with an electronic guide, like an ipod, and made our way through the temple.

Somehow I was not as at peace as I was at Tongdusa. Not sure why, perhaps the views at Beomosa did not feel as open or expansive as those at Tongdusa, or perhaps I was tired. If I have any impressions of Beomosa, it was the electronic guide and what happened at the information booth after we visited the temple.

I enjoyed the recording on the electronic guide very much. It is very well done – not only the contents, but also the music that go with them. In particular, I remember the story behind the words “下马” (coming down from a horse), carved on one of the columns near the entrance to the temple. I remember that “suffering and enlightenment are the same”, that was a profound and an eureka! moment. I remember most, if not all, of the process one goes through in search of enlightenment (depicted by pictures of the cowherd and the cow on one of the walls). There is also background information about Buddhism and you can replay any section as many times as you like. Really, the recordings are very well done.

By the time we returned to the information booth to return the ipod, we were cold and tired, and I felt badly in need of a hot shower. Lo and behold! Hot tea and rice cakes waiting for us! How little acts of thoughtfulness turn a cold day warm, instantly. These elegant ladies are volunteer guides, but it is clear that they love what they do. With that kind of enthusiasm and passion, I imagine they turn every encounter into indelible memories for the visitor, like what they did for me. We spent a good hour in the little booth eating and yakking away.

Because I did not get to see cherry blossoms on this trip (they blossomed late due to the unusually cold weather), one of the ladies sent me this beautiful photo of a fully blossomed tree, through Kim. How very thoughtful and sweet.

Moved to Tears - Tongdusa

Seldom am I moved to tears, especially at sights that are stationary. But I was, on two occasions, at two simple sights. These two places do not come with ribbons and trimmings, bells and whistles. They are just their simple selves, but they conveyed an emotion so strong I was overwhelmed. I broke down in tears. I guess it is really not what it is, it is the way they make me feel.

Tongdusa, Yangsan City, near Busan, Wednesday March 31, 2010

I have not read about Tongdusa, but I go along with Kim. She seemed sure this is worth a visit.

It had drizzled since early morning and looked as if it will continue for the whole day. The bus ride from Nopo-dong, the last station on the Busan subway, to Yangsan, where Tongdusa is, was shorter than we had expected.

At the main gate of Tongdusa, we were directed to the path for pedestrians. There were some people going about their way, in silence. They look like devotees of the temple, not tourists. Some sections of the path looked as if they evolved naturally over many years of being walked on. On both sides are many pine trees and a little stream runs along side. Because of the rain, it was a misty picture, very quiet, almost surreal, or as Kim put it, a scene out of a movie set.

We did not talk much, as if we were afraid to spoil the ambience. We walked for some time and still no information booth in sight. The rain was relentless, like someone who would not stop sobbing. It was cold. I started to wonder if it is worth our while to suffer the rain, wind, cold, hunger....

Just to distract myself, I asked Kim, do you think they serve vegetarian meal here? Most temples do.

She replied, even if they do, it would probably be for the devotees.

Finally, we found ourselves at the information booth. The lady indicated on a map the main cluster of buildings we should visit. Then she pointed to a building among the cluster and said, “they serve vegetarian meal here from 12 noon. It is now 11.45, you can still make it if you hurry.”

I could not believe my ears! Vegetarian meal on this cold morning sounds great, but....how did she know that I asked about this? It is as if she heard my question. Was it mere coincidence? I can’t help feeling a little creepy.

Nevertheless, it was a delightful meal, I guess I appreciated it much more because I was cold and hungry.

Energized after the meal, we walked around the buildings while balancing our umbrellas, taking photographs, reading the plaques near each site and avoiding the puddles of water on the ground.

Tongdusa appears to be a very old temple, no ornate beams or bright coats of paint. Just plain sturdy weather-beaten wooden beams, window lattices, buildings. There was a rustic and deeply grounded feel to these buildings. People we met went about their businesses silently. The rain and mist floating among the trees and the buildings, near and far, lent a fairyland-like feel to the entire compound.

I felt Tongdusa’s power in its simplicity and silence, it moved me to utter my special prayer for someone who I care deeply. I have never wanted something for someone so earnestly. I don’t know what got me, I was overwhelmed.

We made out way out, through the forest, along the stream. Kim’s red umbrella, my new blue umbrella, we were like two silent souls floating on the clouds. I imagine it would make a great picture. I said to Kim, won’t it be nice if there is someone who will take a photo of us walking in the woods? She must think I am nuts, there is no one in sight.

I did not see the man in the distance until we were quite close. There he was, with an umbrella perched on his shoulder and something wrapped with a towel in his hands. He was standing on one side of a puddle of water and asked us to walk to the opposite side and stand there. I did not realize why, but Kim did. He is a photographer (a serious one, judging by the equipment he has), waiting for someone to model for him. All he wanted was a picture of the models’ reflection in the water, aberrated by the ripples caused by the rain droplets on the water. How long has he been waiting? Is this another coincidence? Here he is, the photographer I wished for, who would take a photo of us walking in the woods. I was happy, but can’t help that creepy feeling. I said to Kim, I had better be careful what I wish for.

Subsequent events suggested that the person for whom I care deeply has made progresses towards his dream. I feel very happy for him. Were they again coincidences? I like to think that my prayers in Tongdusa were answered.

I promise myself that if I return to Tongdusa, I want to explore the rest of the sprawling grounds. Probably a temple stay. Busan suddenly became my favorite city – mild weather, great international connections, ocean fresh fish, convenience and choices of everything I need for daily living, yet an hour away from this haven called Tongdusa...

Busan: at Home

The first day in Busan ended in an area touted as one of the best spots for nightlife in the city. This is probably the longest name for a subway station: Kyungsung University Pukyong National University.

Bright lights and lots of shops and cafes lined the streets and alleys, this seems like a favorite hang-out place for the young and trendy. It feels a little like Hongdae area in Seoul.

We wanted to find some interesting café, like the aA Design Museum café in Hongdae. A sweet little girl at the shop took the time to recommend two. She was very concerned – what if you do not like the ones I recommend? No worries, we will see.

We found the first one easily, but it was crowded, kind of claustrophobic. The second cafe seemed tucked away and was not easy to locate, so we allowed ourselves to be distracted by the activities along the streets and alleys, and quickly forget about the cafe. 

As we were wandering from one street to another, led by what might interest us, we were drawn to a café named “at Home”, tucked away in a corner. It was love at first sight. We sat ourselves in there, and only then did we realize this is the second café which the little girl recommended.

We were led "Home", we believe.

Busan: Beaches

We only have time for one more stop on the City Tour Bus. It has to be the famous Haeundae beach.

The beach was almost empty in the chilly weather. A far cry from summer. You don’t want to be here in the summer, Kim said, there is hardly space to move.

Nearby Gwangali beach is just as deserted.

I was contented to stroll along the empty beaches, and to watch the beautifully lit Diamond Bridge from a café along Gwangali beach. Too cold to attempt anything more adventurous.

Busan Encounters: Strawberries

As we headed back to Taejongdae to continue the bus tour, we were tempted by strawberries, looking so lusciously inviting, sitting in a basin at a little shop.

We wanted to sample, can we buy just a little? Yes, the lady at the shop said. We got a good lot for just under US$1.

The best part of this transaction? Not only did she pick the best ones for us, she also washed the strawberries so they are ready for consumption.

Great service and great value, doubly delicious, it is a treat we did not expect.

Busan Encounters - the singing family

The Busan city tour bus is great value - about US$8 for 2 courses covering major sights over 4 hours. The only challenge: which sight to get off to explore further? We had to be very selective.

At Taejongdae, we were distracted to go off course. For a different perspective, we went on a ferry ride to see Busan and the Taejongdae cliffs from the sea.

The passengers who were on the ferry were mainly Koreans, including local folks from Busan. There was a family of 3 brother/sisters from Busan, clad in bright outfit, game for a great time. They started to sing, uninhibited. Although I do not understand the words, the sorrowful melodies reminded me of certain Japanese and Taiwanese songs. It is a genre of song called “trot”, which I was told, is popular in Busan, particularly those of the city’s own trot singer, Na Hoon-a.

The ferry turned into a noraebang (karaoke), there was an indescribable boisterous party mood. The colors, music and the mood lifted some of the gloom brought by the chilly winds and grey skies.

Busan

Of the three days that we were in Busan, two were rainy. We did not have time to cover all that we wanted.

Later, Kim told me that she did consider spending more days in Busan, but thought I might not like to, because Busan is a port city somewhat similar to Singapore and Hong Kong, the other two port cities where I spend my time. On the contrary, it was easy for me to like Busan.

There is an energy about port cities. They never feel remote. Goods and people passed through ports, culture and customs get transmitted in the process, like osmosis. Port cities connect to anywhere in the world, and there is a life to this process. Being surrounded by water, they may not feel as grounded, but like water, they are deceptively powerful and often therapeutic. I imagine that people who live close to the sea will embrace the strength and grace of water and they know what it means to go with the flow.

Busan has something else which Singapore and Hong Kong lack. She has the space that Hong Kong does not have. She has mountains as back drop which Singapore does not have. She has great weather (like San Francisco, I was told) and air quality. She has ocean fresh seafood in abundance, for as little as US$5. She is international, but she is not congested or in a hurry. She has space and time for life.

Busan is well connected to other parts of Korea as well as within the region, by ferry, train or bus. It makes a good base from which to go to most cities in the country, especially the tourist destinations in the South such as Gyeongju, Jinhae and Jeju. It is 3 hours by train to Seoul. It is connected by ferry to various cities in Japan, Russia Far East and the east coast of China.

What is it like to live in Busan, I wonder.

It Just Happened! ....like everyone was waiting for you

"Figure out the process, not the goals..." ~ from “Straight Lines and Curved Lines” by Master Beop Jeong.

I may be quoting Master Beop Jeong out of context, but this is exactly what I did given my circumstances. Be prepared to drop anything on my wish list, as long as I enjoy the journey. I don’t want to stress myself out.

In the process of asking and clarifying and seeking advice, my first lucky star surfaced. She introduced me to her friend in Korea – Kim will be able to answer your questions, why don't you email her?

Why not? Three weeks before I set off, Kim and I exchanged emails almost everyday. I guessed she must have either worked in the travel industry or is a seasoned traveller because every email from her has useful trip updates which reflect her empathy for the recipient. On both counts I was right.

Kim is a god-send, she kept me posted on the weather, she booked guest houses which have no English websites on my behalf, she checked out hotels and gave me her feedback (some of these are recommended by other travel sites), she found useful information about exchange rates and global ATM facilities, she advised on how to go to certain places of interests outside of Seoul, which travel agent to go with for JSA tour, which train tickets to secure in advance since it is start of cherry blossom season......and sensing my concern about the weather (which was so erratic I just did not know how to prepare for it), she offered to lend me her winter clothes. And plenty she did lend me.

And the big surprise? She was going to travel to Busan and Gyeongju with me! Everything that could potentially prevent this from happening faded away. I kept my fingers crossed until we actually board the train from Seoul to Busan. Things fell into place, just like a miracle.

This turned out to be one of the best trips we’ve made. In Kim’s own words:

“we were really really lucky to meet many nice local people while we were on the roads during our trips to Busan and Gyeongju. Remember, we did not plan anything in advance. It just happened! It was like each and everyone was waiting for you on their schedule, it was simply amazing!”